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Mimosa Hostilis

Mimosa hostilis (Jurema, Tepezcohuite) is a perennial evergreen tree or shrub native to the northeastern region of Brazil and found as far north as southern Mexico.

Mimosa hostilis is known for its entheogenic properties, having a uniquely fascinating chemical structure and alkaloid makeup. Mimosa Hostilis Jurema's characteristics are known throughout the Amazon and it is often considered by the Shamans and Amazonian natives to be a spiritual gate between worlds. Mimosa Hostilis is regarded a Shaman's plant and spiritual guide. The Mimosa hostilis root bark comes from a tree locally known as Jurema, Jurema Preta, Black Jurema or Vinho de Jurema and is the most desired part of the plant known by the local Shaman for its entheogenic traits.

Family : Leguminosae or Mimosaceae
Genus : Mimosa
Species: hostilis, tenuiflora; verrucosa
Common names: Jurema Preta (hostilis, tenuiflora), Jurema Branca,
Mimosa, Caatinga, white jurema, black jurema.


Ayahuasca is a sacred medicine of the Amazon that has been used since time immemorial by more than 70 ethnic groups that inhabit the Amazon basin and constitutes the core of their traditional medicine and cosmovision. In Quechua, ayahuasca means “vine of the spirits”.

It is prepared by mixing and cooking 2 plants: a vine, ayahuasca (Banisteriopsis caapi) and the leaves of a bush, chacruna (Psychotria viridis). The result is a thick and bitter, earth-colored beverage, with enteogenous and emetic effects. Each ethnic group, including each individual ayahuasquero, may add ingredients (or substitutes) to increase the potency of the beverage and its medicinal effects. The beverage is attributed different names according to its geographical location: for the Shuar in Ecuador it is known as “natema”; in Brasil as “jurema” or “daime”; and for the Cashinahua, “nixi pae”. In the Peruvian jungle, it is better known as “Ayahuasca” and is commonly called purga due to its emetic and cleansing effects.

Chemical composition of Ayahuasca: In simple words, the presence of both plants is needed in the ayahuasca beverage in order for the enteogenous effects to take place. The active component responsible for the visions is DMT, which is naturally found in the leaves of the chacruna bush. However, the DMT is destroyed by the enzymes of the stomach. On the other hand, the ayahuasca vine essentially provides iMAOs, which inhibit the stomach’s enzymes and allow the temporary assimilation of the DMT into the blood stream.


Making an ayahuasca brew is a task by itself that usually involves a lot of time, patience and care. For those who are nevertheless considering the option, here are some of the preparation methods to give an idea of what it involves to make ayahuasca. You can Buy Ayahusca ingredients easily at online stores like Avalon Magic Plants.

Chacruna and Banisteriopsis Caapi Vine
Nice dosage for an average sized and experienced adult: 50 gms dried Chacruna. 50 gms dried Banisteriopsis Caapi vine. *(Fresh green leaves and liana are always preferred as they seem to contain at least twice the psychoactive potency, but obviously difficult to procure in that state.)

- Chop both materials separately in any cheap food processor until consistency of near powder.
- Cut two double folded 18"x12" cheese cloth sections.
- Place the leave in one section and tie up securely like a tea bag. Do the same to the vine powder in the second section of cloth.
- Softly boil (just a bit more heat then simmering) the bags separately in a liter of distilled water and stainless steel or ceramic pot for two hours. Avoid aluminum cookware as it is reported to chemically react with the harmalines in the "spirit vine".
- Remove bags and squeeze the liquid from them into drinking glass. I do this with a small screen collander and heavy spoon to press with.
- Boil remaining water in individual pots down to manageable drinking volume (120-180 ml) as the brew is not in the least palatable. This typically takes another 30 minutes.
- Add liquids to corresponding liquids from the pressed bags.
- Allow to cool in refrigerator at least 30 minutes. The psychoactivity of the decoction has been excellent for me when taken from refrigerator up to one week later.

There is no need, I have found, for multiple baths or washes which is widely accepted on existing forum recipes. I have found no scientific or proven data to support it. The acidification of bath water with lemon, vinegar, or ascorbic acid is also unnecessary in my experience. It was never used by the Amazonian Indians, and it does not boil away and leaves an extra foul taste. As with multiple baths, I see no difference in my extractions with and without it.

Peganum Harmala recipe
3-5 grams Peganum Harmalis seeds crushed in two table spoons in flavored ice cream or picante salsa. I've found either of those foods will effectively disguise the rude taste where broths, soups, and other foods fail.
In 15-30 min, ingest 12-20 gms Mimosa Hostilis root bark powder extract in five to six tbsp's ice cream or salsa (more if needed for taste). The admixtures have not interfered with uptake of the psychoactive ingredients or posed any tryptamine threats.

This recipe and DMT/MAOI combo has yielded the most intense experiences for me with the least amount of nausea and repulsive brew oriented material to confront. The liana or 'spirit vine' brews of Caapi and Viridis, for instance, do yield differing results and trips. It's all a matter of personal preference to the experienced psychonaut.

The use of Banisteriopsis caapi in this recipe is based on the premise that a) a brew of Banisteropsis caapi and (usually) Psychotria viridis is the traditional South American brew, b) the caapi is particularly important as traditionally the caapi itself is considered to be "ayahuasca" while the DMT-containing plants are simply helpers, and c) the caapi and the experience it provides are smoother, safer, and "wiser" than that produced by Peganum harmala (syrian rue). Banesteropsis caapi is less unpredictable and more controlled, a more reliable and learned teacher.

After examining your intentions, researching, and following the requisite dietary regimen, gather together:
50 grams of Banisteriopsis caapi (whole vine, not shredded/powdered)
12 grams of Mimosa hostilis root bark (not shredded or powdered.)
white vinegar
distilled water
4 stainless steel pots

Ayahusca Preparation Steps
Wrap the caapi in a towel and break it up with a hammer until it is shredded. Powder the mimosa with a coffee grinder or shred by hand.
In one pot, put in the mimosa, a teaspoon of vinegar, and a liter or so of water.
In another pot, put in the caapi, and a similar amount of water and vinegar.
Simmer for 2-3 hours or until water level gets low. Avoid boiling -- it should be just cool enough not to bubble. Speak your intentions to the brew as it is brewing; listen to the sounds it makes. Do not leave it unattended; if you need to do something different, turn off the stove. Keeping the mimosa and the caapi separate, filter each through a cloth (or tshirt) until the brew becomes clear, probably 4 or 5 times. (An excellent method for easy filtering is to duct tape a t-shirt over an empty pot, allowing you to use both hands to pour the brew. The t-shirt will become quickly clogged, so for each filter you must use a fresh section of cloth.) Put the mimosa tea in a pot for mimosa, the caapi in a pot for caapi, and reduce both; remember not to bring to a full boil.
Repeat steps 2-5 three times, keeping the mimosa and caapi separate. The plant material is to be boiled a total of three times with fresh water and vinegar each time; the brewed/filtered tea is kept separate and reduced over low heat as you do the second and third washes. This method requires four pots, unless you spread it out over several nights.
At this point you will have a pot containing the three washes of mimosa, reduced, and the same for the caapi. Each dose should be no smaller than half a cup and no larger than a cup. (Less concentrated brews taste better, but leave you with more to drink.) Put them in the fridge overnight.
The next day, carefully remove the cooled mimosa from the fridge. Through a t-shirt filter, pour off the liquid; avoid disturbing the sludge/sediment on the bottom of the container. You don't need it. DO NOT do this with the reduced caapi brew; if you've filtered properly, your tea should be pretty clean. It should become clear when heated, and have a purplish color, much like red wine.
Once you have done this, you have the option of combining the mimosa and the caapi or drinking the mimosa after the caapi. Shake up the caapi to make sure that any sediment is in the tea and not on the bottom of the container. Heat up the tea, drinking it warm.

It is suggested that two doses be brewed for each person. If you cannot keep the tea down and purge prematurely, you will then have another cup to drink.

Be thankful for the experience, no matter what happens. There are always lessons to be learned, whether it "works" or not, whether you have a "good" trip or a "bad" one.

This is a bit more complex than some recipes that call for syrian rue, but using real vine instead of syrian rue is worth it. It is a bit more expensive, but worth the money; even with B. caapi, a dose will still cost less than many other hallucinogens.

Note 1 - Fifty grams of Psychotria viridis leaves can be used instead of Mimosa hostilis. If going this route, the completed washes should be put in a container or pot in the fridge until the next day instead of being reduced immediately.
Note 2 - Make sure your pots are steel -- no aluminum and ABSOLUTELY no Teflon. After finishing a wash (step five), you can reduce the brewed tea while doing the remaining washes; however, if you do not have four pots, it is possible to do it all in one pot. The caapi and mimosa can be combined into one pot throughout the brewing and reduction process. If you are doing it like this, you must spread out the brewing over more than one night; the reduction must be done AFTER the sediment settles overnight in the fridge, as in step eight. You can reduce the mimosa and then pour off the sediment after letting it sit in the fridge without it affecting the quality of your tea; you cannot do this with caapi.
Note 3 - Storing your ayahuasca brew. After preparing, ayahuasca can be stored for several weeks, if not months. Make sure the brew is stored in well sealed pots/containers and in a dark, cool place. Always boil the ayahuasca again before drinking it.

The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark by Vortex
A report and guide for a new way of extracting MHRB

Extraction Time: 1 gm in 2.5 hrs, 4 gm in 7 hr, 7.5 g total @48 hrs from Mexican MHRB Inner Root Bark

Equipment: 5 Litre ceramic or stainless steel mixing bowl, stainless stell Potato masher, 2000 ml measuring cup, Large flat glass baking pan, Fan, VM&P Naphtha; hardware store, NaOH sodium hydroxide; online auction, often listed as Red Devil Lye.


This process is much simpler than all of the other DMT extraction teks for Mimosa hostilis root bark. All you need to do is throw pieces of root bark into water which has had a measured amount of NaOH/sodium hydroxide dissolved into it, wait an hour, add naphtha, stir for a few minutes and then pour the naphtha off into a collection container for evaporation. In essence that is all there is to this tek. No need to fuss with acidifying the root bark for a defat, no pH papers needed, no separatory funnel, nothing fancy yet this is a very effective technique with higher yields than any other method out there yet.

Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark:

Break 400 to 500 grams of Mimosa hostilis root bark, whether inner, outer or whole root into small enough pieces all of it will fit into a large ceramic or stainless steel mixing bowl with enough room left over to only fill the bowl half way to the top. Next, completely dissolve 200 grams of NaOH/sodium hydroxide into 2000-3000 ml of tap water and add to the root bark.

Wait an hour for the lye/sodium hydroxide to soften up the root bark and then using a stainless steel potato masher stir and mash the base adjusted water into the pieces of root bark for 20-30 minutes and then pour in 250+ ml of naphtha into the bowl and mix for another 20-30 minutes. After you are done mixing the root bark let it sit for a few minutes so that any emulsion which might have stirred up into the solvent to settle out and then just pour the majority of the solvent off of the top of the basified aqueous mix into a large flat glass baking pan and evaporate with a fan blowing air across the top of the fluid to net 600-1000 mg of alkaloid in just a few hours.

Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the DMT alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A-B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the DMT is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.

Dry defat without acid

Although Mimosa hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no H20) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid for a few minutes and then filtered out of the naphtha which is then discarded. For an extreme defat heat the naphtha to near its boiling point and then stir the powder into it but be sure to pour off every drop of naphtha you can when done and throw that naphtha away, you should not use it for anything more in the process. Once you are done with the solvent defat the root bark powder is then dumped into the basified mix, as is and wet with naphtha if you like, or after drying. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway. This "dry" defat without water works very well to remove what fats there are but is not really needed if extracting the plant material at room temperature.

Step by step guide for the above using a pound of root bark.

If you want to use more or less root bark fraction or multiply out everything specified in this tech for smaller or larger amounts:

1. Break a pound or 454 grams of dried of Mimosa hostilis root bark into small pieces so that no piece is longer than three inches allowing them to all nicely fit into the bottom of a large 5 liter mixing bowl with lots of extra room left over and set to the side.

2. Prepare some basified water by fully dissolving 200 grams (~13 measured tablespoons full) of NaOH/sodium hydroxide lye powder into 2 liters of tap water in a large measuring cup.

3. Add the basified water you just made to the bowl of broken root bark, stir for a few minutes and set aside for two or more hours (longer is better).

4. After soaking the root bark in high pH NaOH adjusted water (which is near a pH of 13.5 or more) for a couple of hours or more take a stainless steel potato masher and start mashing the broken root as best you can in the basified water for 20-30 minutes (longer is better).

5. After you are done mashing the root bark for a few minutes (which will still be fairly hard if only soaking 2 hours) then add 250 to 400 ml of clean room temperature naphtha (more makes separation from the soup easier) and stir the solvent into the aqueous mix for 20-30 minutes (longer is better).

6. After mixing the naphtha into the bowl pour as much of the solvent as you can easily get off of the top of the aqueous mix (naphtha floats on top in water as a distinct layer) into another container, leaving all of the dark soup behind which will be extracted over again later. Be sure not to allow any of the dark water or any of the bubbly emulsion which may have formed in the solvent to go out with it, you just want clear solvent now leaving everything else behind in the bowl.

Note: If you have so much emulsion that the solvent is half filled with it wait a few minutes to an hour for it to settle out so you can get more of the solvent out.

7. Take all of the clear naphtha without any water or bubbles in it you have carefully separated from the basified mix of water and root bark and pour all of it into as large a flat glass container you can find for evaporation. Using a fan to blow air across the top of the fluid will help speed the rate of evaporation several fold faster.

8. After all of the naphtha has been evaporated you will find small white DMT bumps of extract stuck to the glass which can be scraped off with a flat blade. If you also see some shiny clear film on the glass it is best to wait until they completely solidify into a white deposit of DMT before scraping off together with the larger white clumps.

Extraction notes:

When this extraction process was first tried with inner root bark 1.0 grams of very white alkaloid without discernable fat impurities was extracted from beginning to end in just 2 and a half hours and that includes the time to fan evaporate the naphtha in a broad flat glass pan. Of course, the aqueous mix of root bark needs to be extracted over to get more of the alkaloid out of the mix but you can get plenty of DMT for unspecified uses in a short amount of time this way with a minimal amount of elbow grease and time.

Soaking the root bark in basified water

The broken inner root bark was soaked in 2 liters of water with 75 grams of NaOH dissolved into it for 1 hour before trying to mash the root bark in the basified water with a potato masher. The bark almost immediately became a dark black color and the water soon after became very dark brown colored which after 30 minutes of working the root bark with a masher started to appear more black than brown.

The first extraction cycle:

After that 400 ml of naphtha was poured into the aqueous basified mix which was then stirred for 30 minutes with a potato masher so that the solvent would absorb the alkaloid released from the root bark by the high pH water. I like to use 300-400 ml of solvent per extraction to make separation from the basified portion of the mix easier. Then the naphtha was carefully and slowly poured off the top of the aqueous mix into another container for full evaporation to net a full gram of white alkaloid from 500 grams of inner Mimosa hostilis root bark without powdering it.

Second extraction, NaOH doubled:

Right after this first extraction I wanted to see if increasing the amount of NaOH would increase the yield so 75 more grams of sodium hydroxide was dissolved into ~750 ml of additional water and added to the mix with 400 more ml of naphtha poured into the bowl which was stirred again for close to 30 minutes and carefully separated from the mix for evaporation. With the amount of NaOH doubled the yield was found to be 50% greater at 1.5 grams of alkaloid and because of this I recommend a minimum of 150 grams of NaOH for 2 liters of water when extracting 250 to 500 grams of broken root bark and from 200-250 grams of this base per 3+ liters of water when extracting from 500 to 1000 grams of broken root bark.

Third extraction

After the first two extractions the root bark was extracted a third time right way. 400 ml of fresh solvent was added to the mix again and stirred for 30 minutes before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation to yield about ~1.25 grams on the third try that day, all in just a few hours. From there another 400 ml of naphtha (which is way more than needed on a solubility basis) was added to the brown to black appearing aqueous solution, covered to prevent further evaporation and put away to soak for close to 24 hours.

Forth extraction, long soak:

After another day the root bark had become far softer and almost slimy instead of stiff root bark as it had been the day before, the NaOH clearly doing its job at breaking the plant material down. The solvent from this forth long term extraction was evaporated to yield another 1.5 grams of white extract for a total of close to 5 grams of impure DMT from 500 grams of inner root bark from the four extractions spread over 30+ hours from when the root bark was first placed in the bowl.

Fifth extraction, another 24 hours and warming:

For this fifth extraction of the aqueous solution naphtha was added into the bowl and allowed to sit another 24 hours before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation. An hour before pouring it off the mix was warmed to 120 degrees F. and stirred for 20 minutes. Upon evaporation I found that the warming had made quite a difference, even after having extracted the mix four times prior I found that I was able to draw nearly 2 grams of alkaloid into the solvent this time which was more than any of the previous single extractions, even greater than the first or second which you would naturally assume would be greater. Part of the reason for this might be that the root bark had soaked in the basified solution longer releasing more alkaloid to the water and also part due to both the basified mix and solvent being warm but in any case the draw was highest on the fifth extraction of the solution bringing the total net up to ~6.5 grams with more left in the root bark to get out, all from 500 grams of inner root bark.

Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems:

A sixth and last extraction was performed to the mix by pouring 500 ml of fresh naphtha back into the bowl, stirring for a few minutes and then heating the aqueous solution under the naphtha to 130 degrees F. for an hour, stirring often. The temperature of the naphtha floating on top of the basified solution was measured to be 10-15 degrees cooler than the basified mix below it due to what I assume was being caused by cooling as the solvent evaporated off the top, even though a fairly slow rate of evaporation. After an hour at 130 F. the warm naphtha was poured off for rapid fan evaporation in the large flat glass pan which yielded close to 2 grams of yellowish extract (only becoming yellow after solidifying, clear until then) but this time upon cooling did not firm up very quickly and even after 8 hours was a very soft sticky extract which was obviously mostly DMT as indicated by both smell and crystalline formations but would not dry into a firm wax-like substance very quickly due to what I believe might be fatty impurities released from the root bark when heated too far in the base solution.

Extraction advice; soak longer, extract more with less work:

Instead of all of the multiple extractions one after the other you could save yourself some work by just throwing 500 grams of broken pieces of root bark into 2 liters of water with 200 grams of NaOH dissolved into the water and then pour in 750 ml of naphtha and set the whole container aside for three days, stirring just once a day for 20 minutes at a time. After three days the solvent from a single draw of the aqueous mix should contain far more alkaloid, maybe has high as two thirds the total amount I had pulled out in four separate draws done over 24 hours. Obviously, even after letting the mix sit for three days and a very successful first big pull of the alkaloid from the mix you will need to re-extract the aqueous solution with more naphtha at least three times to get the bulk of the alkaloid out but then you could probably still continue extracting the mix a half dozen times or more and still get more of the alkaloid out each time, although ever diminishing returns. You just have to decide how much you want to get out of the mix before considering it a waste of time or solvent to continue working at it.

Notes on separating the naphtha from the aqueous mix:

When separating the naphtha from the NaOH/water/root you may need to first pour the solvent off the top of the mix into a large measuring cup allowing some of the dark basified water to come over with it so that you can more easily pour the solvent off using the small spout on the measuring cup because when pouring the solvent out of a bowl it is difficult to control what pours out.

To warm or not to warm the basified mix of root bark:

Although the majority of the alkaloid had been extracted at room temperature for this extraction I found that the amount of alkaloid extracted is greater when the mix is warmed up to 100 degrees F. - Whether it is a good idea to warm highly basified DMT containing plant material I do not know. Although the yield was greater in a shorter amount of time on that last draw at over 130 degrees F. the extract was different, although clear before complete evaporation of the naphtha it turned a yellow color and remained as a syrup-like liquid for two days, although which took days to begin to crystalize yet it appears to be fairly high percentage DMT by both smell and appearance when it does crystalize. Perhaps heating the mix allows plant fats to come over which did not do so before? Perhaps Not being any kind of a chemist I do not know the answer to this but I can accurately report on what I observed which is all this tech really is, a report.

When soaking the root bark in the warmed solution be sure to periodically check the temperature to make sure the solution does not go over 120 F. or you might get a lot of the gummy impurities in the extract which showed up when I did so. Even though I am recommending 100 degrees F. and suggesting an upper limit of 120 degrees F. even 100 F might be too warm if over a long enough period of time causing some of the gummy substance I had observed coming over into the solvent at ~130+ degrees to be extracted. To assure this substance does not extract along with the alkaloid it might be better to just leave the solution at normal room temperatures while soaking the bark in the aqueous mix for 72+ hours and only raise the solution to 120 degrees F. for an hour prior to pouring the solvent off for evaporation.

If you decide to heat your basified mix with naphtha in it for hours to days as the root bark is broken down by the NaOH I would cover the container with kitchen plastic wrap or something to slow the evaporation of the naphtha. After 48 hours the root bark is broken down pretty good by the lye to where it becomes fairly soft and extracts well but if you are using powdered root bark I do not believe it would be necessary to soak the bark for that long a period of time at all, probably just an hour or more should be enough to chemically break the powder itself down further for a higher extraction yield.

There is a report that DMT will break down in solution over time, more easily if at high pH. While I have not verified this report I did get a runny extract when the temperature was allowed to rise to 130+ degrees for an hour. Just in case, if you do one of these extractions at the high pH called for in this tech to help break the root bark down (and to increase the amount of yield which comes over at a pH of 13.5) I would limit the amount of time the root bark soaks in the basified mix to no more than three days.

A few last words about the tek

Although I have written this tek as a how to do guide, it is also a report and not meant to imply that this is "the way" to do an extraction, it is just one way which I am sure can be improved upon as people start getting more experience with it. I might not be doing everything just right, but I think I am close with the amount of yield that I was able to get. Heating is the big question, should we heat a basified mix at all? I don't know, but the yields do come over fast if you do. Maybe the safe thing to do is only heat the mix just prior to the last hour or so and keep the mix at room temperature the rest of the time.

~ Enjoy your ahauasca from Mimosa Hostilis~